A digital camera has a defined and relatively restricted dynamic range for exposure. In a bright sunlit photograph, it is difficult to take one photo that has detail in the brightest areas and still contains some information in the shadows. Take two images that are optimized for the bright and darker areas separately and merge them in Photoshop to get one photograph that shows the scene as you saw it.
In the photograph below it took 3 images to get the shot balanced,
* First i shot one slightly under exposed for the sky to bring out the colours and hold back the highlights
* second i shot a proper exposed shot to keep the beach, water and mountain exposed right and to brighten the shadows
* And lastly i shot around 10 images for the water movement at a slower shutter speed so i had a few different waves to choose from to use
* Once i selected my favorite wave movement shot i then loaded the 3 selected images into photoshop layers and began to merge them using layer masks, once i am happy with the final combined image i then flatten it to one image then i begin my work on the post processing( colour,sharpness etc.....)
this picture taken at Taylors Beach in Port Stephens NSW is about how sometimes a very very clear sky combined with no wind creates awesome muted colours and some cool silhouettes of the boats on sunset with those elements combined make what i feel a very calming and relaxing image, i hope it makes you feel that way too ....cheers
After going past this location many times in a boat saying i'm gonna shoot there one day, i finally decided to make the trek from taylors beach. It takes a good half an hour walk to get there but it has potential and i will return when i have some more dramatic skies and a higher tide as there are some cool stumps and fallen trees that would be surrounded by water
sometimes all the elements just come together to make shooting photos more and more addictive
and this afternoon at soldiers point was just one of those moments
what i was greeted with was no wind which made the harbour resemble a mirror creating amazing reflections from the awesome cloud cover to the setting sun poking its head through it was just a magic time to be a landscape photographer .....an afternoon i wont forget for quite some time
The best time to shoot landscape photographs is during the "Golden Hour" -- the first and last hour during sunrise and sunset. During these times, the sun will give off a beautiful golden hue that can turn an ordinary photograph into an extraordinary photograph. The light at this time of day is preferred because it is soft and indirect, unlike during the middle of the day when the image is bright and has very harsh shadows
if you look below you can see just how much a photo can change if shot at the right time of day
this shot is taken around 11am note that the image is very flat, bright and has harsh shadows caused by the hand rail
where as this one shot around 5.30 - 6.30 am has that rich colour and no harsh shadows and is just much more pleasing to the eyes
When learning the art of photography, one of the most important elements you must master is how to shoot in natural light. Photographs shot in natural light will look more natural and candid and natural light photography is often the most preferred method of shooting. You can use three basic techniques to light a subject with natural light: front lighting, back lighting and side lighting.
Capturing the beauty of the night sky doesn't have to be challenging. With the correct equipment, photographing a starry night is something that is easy enough for beginner photographers. A well-executed star photo can be satisfying to show others and a worthy addition to a photography portfolio.
1. Set up your tripod in a dark area such as a rural location. The tripod will keep the camera steady so the stars will be crisp. Failure to use a tripod will cause blurry pictures in most long exposures. A rural location is important because city locations often contain too much light pollution and your exposures will be too bright. Choose a night that is dark and moonless. The moon gives off too much light and will dominate the photo
2. Set the focus of your camera to manual. Set the focus to infinity and set open your aperture as much as your lens allows. Put the camera on your tripod and aim for the sky. Ensure there are no large objects blocking the sky from view unless you want them to be part of your photo.
3. Set your exposure time to a few seconds at first: 10 or 20 seconds on a digital camera, set the ISO to 3200 also use a lens with a very low Fstop like at 2.8. Try to stick to exposures under 30 seconds so as not to drain the battery. Long exposures will use a lot of the battery's power. You may need to change your batteries at some point, so make sure to keep spares on hand. Use your camera's cable release to avoid shaking the camera and causing motion blur in your photos. Vary the length of exposures for different results. Longer exposures will lead to brighter stars but they will have "star trails" because of the Earth's movement.
this image shows the milky way frozen
The Rule of Thirds can be briefly described as a compositional rule that every photographer, amateur or professional, should consider when taking any type of photograph. This rule is used to make photos more interesting. The basic compositional rule utilizes the tendency for the human eye to be drawn toward the center of any subject of a photo--which is exactly what the Rule of Thirds does not do. With the Rule of Thirds, the photo is divided by two imaginary horizontal lines and two imaginary vertical lines, creating a grid. The main subject of your photo should never fall in the middle box or the center. By learning the Rule of Thirds, you'll be able to add more intensity and energy to your photos and enhance your photography skills.
See how in the image below that the horizon is on the bottom horizontal rule and the tree was was placed on the right vertical rule giving the image balance
What are they?
"Leading lines" refers to a photography technique that involves using a "line"--such as a road or power lines or even a jetty to draw the viewer's eye to certain parts of the photo. It's a simple but effective technique that gives the photographer some control over how the artwork is perceived in the eyes of the beholder, and there are several aspects of such photos that separate them from other types of pictures.
i always say without cloud the sky is boring,so in knowing that it was going to be one of those days with clear skies and no clouds to throw colour ,i decided to get up at 4.30 am and shoot some star trails ( i will do another post on capturing these amazing things in the near future) this image was a total of around 180 images stacked to create the spin, although the image is kind of cool you really do need 300+ images to really enhance the night sky
i will leave it longer next time fingers crossed i get a nice one next time
Have you ever wanted to get your workflow happening a lot quicker so you can get back out in the field faster instead of sitting on the computer all day editing?
well a web developer named waldo has a free web based program called "shortcut mapper"
i suggest you check it out and memorize them you wont regret it and it will get you editing smarter and faster the link in below
High Dynamic Range (HDR) pictures is the process of layering multiple images of the same scene shot at different exposures to create a picture that has all the shadow and highlight detail. Digital pictures shot with my Canon 5D mark II for instance have 256 incremental steps of brightness from total black to complete white. By shooting three to five images of the same scene at different exposures the finished picture will have more of these incremental levels in the HDR image
1 Select the scene you want to shoot, attach your camera to a tripod and position the camera into its shooting position. Use a tripod to ensure you retain the exact same shooting position for each of the individual exposures.
2 Turn your Camera on and select either aperture priority or manual for your shooting mode. When changing the exposure, you will want to retain the same aperture so the depth of field is same on each exposure. Set the camera's image quality to RAW. While these files are larger they retain more of the data collected during the exposure.
3 Set the exposure for the first image to be underexposed by two full stops. If using a manual exposure program then adjust the shutter speed by turning the input dial located near the shutter release to increase the shutter speed until the light meter indicates the scene is underexposed by two stops. If using the aperture priority mode, then turn the rear "Quick Command Dial" on the back of the camera until it the camera is underexposed by two full stops. Press the shutter release to take the picture.
4 Reset the camera so the exposure is now underexposed by one full stop. Take another picture and repeat the process taking pictures at the correct exposure, at overexposed by one stop, and at overexposed by two full stops. You now have five pictures of the same scene at different exposures that you can layer in an HDR program to complete the image.
Cameras designate aperture settings by what is known as an f-stop. This number is written with a lowercase "f" followed by a forward-slash, such as f/22. Aperture controls the amount of light that creates an exposure on the film or digital sensor through the use of a diaphragm whose diameter you can control. The term "stop" without the "f" can refer to either a change in the aperture or shutter speed by one of its designated amounts.
Depending on your type of lens and whether you are using a film or digital camera, f-stop numbers vary. Standard f-stops for a film camera include f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22 and f/32. Some cameras have half-stops or even third-stops. These half or third-stop numbers may be displayed digitally on a camera with an LCD panel, or they may just be available on an aperture ring as a click between where two standard f-stop numbers are printed.
The lower the f-stop number, the wider the aperture's diaphragm is and thus the more light that reaches the film or sensor. Each f-stop is designed to let in either half or double the amount of light of the f-stop before or after it. For example, f/8 lets in double the light of f/11, but f/8 only lets in half the light of f/5.6. When a photographer refers to "stopping down" his aperture, he is referring to reducing light by changing f/11 to f/16, for example
Lower aperture numbers let in more light through a wider diaphragm, creating what is known as a shallow depth of field. This means while you may focus on a certain plane in the image, the other planes will be less in focus. This is because the wide diaphragm allows light to pass through many of the varying thicknesses of the camera's lens, pushing some planes out of focus. A high aperture number creates a tiny opening in the diaphragm, concentrating the rays of light through fewer varying-thickness layers in the lens and bringing more depths of the image into focus.
Relationship to Shutter Speed
Aperture f-stop numbers work in proportion to shutter speed stops. Each stop of exposure with shutter speed also lets in double or half the light of the previous setting. For example, your camera's light meter may indicate that f/11 and 1/250 of a second create the perfect amount of camera exposure for a certain lighting situation. Changing the shutter speed to 1/500 lets in a full stop less light than what is needed. You can compensate for this by changing the f-stop to f/8 which lets in a full stop more light. For this reason, it is helpful to learn standard f-stops and shutter speed numbers so you can calculate how to create the same amount of exposure with different settings.
What does it mean?
When using a camera with manual controls, you have the option to set the aperture. This allows you to determine how much light to allow into your camera, which affects the overall exposure and how deeply focused your picture will be. Setting the aperture on your camera can give your pictures a variety of looks by blurring out the background or keeping it sharp. It also helps determine how bright or dark your pictures will be. Aperture is one of the components of photographic exposure.
How to use it
1.Determine if your camera can have the aperture set. SLR (Single Lens Reflex) cameras and some feature heavy compact digital cameras allow you to set the aperture. Look for a command dial on your camera. If it is labeled with an "Av" or "A," it has the ability to set the aperture manually. Some compact digital cameras hide this feature in a menu system.
3. Adjust the aperture on your camera. Use your camera manual to determine where the aperture setting is on your specific model and brand of camera. Toggle through the numbers, remembering that the lower number will allow more light into the camera. If you are shooting in the fully manual ("M") mode, your shutter speed will stay constant as your set your aperture to different values. Take a few pictures with different aperture values to see how the different settings affect your picture.
The Rusty Files
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